Shooting DH in low light

dandantheadminman · Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 6:29 pm Post subject: Shooting DH in low light

Hey

Lately I've been out practising photoing DH, but the problem is because I tend to ride mostly in the evenings, and therefore photo in the evenings the light is low, so I have to use stupi dslow shutter speeds liek 1/60s and 1/30s which also always results in the rider blurring due the speeds in which we ride.

Anyone got any pointers on how to avoid this blurring in low light?

I've heard on southern downhill the right of flash will work?

dandantheadminman · Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 10:34 pm Post subject:

I found a combination of flash and and faster ISO speed works, though don't over use fast ISOs because the results get progressively grainy.
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mikedeere · Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 am Post subject:

I did a recent shoot which was incredibly dark... In the forest I was getting results of about 1/30th of a second at f/2.8 and ISO800! So very, very dark. I used an off-camera flash mounted on a tripod on the opposite side of the trail to freeze the action whilst maintaining a reasonable exposure in the background. [link]

Flash is pretty much a definite for a lot of riding photos I'd say, I even use it for fill-in lighting in strong sunlight just to balance the image.

Hamish · Forum Veteran Joined: 29 Sep 2006 Posts: 1011

If it's dark then you can just go to a slower. more technical bit and take panning shots - it takes a bit pf practice to get it right. I try and avoid flash in forests as I find it gives unnatural looking results. Here's an example of what you can get by panning at ISO800 1/30 f1.8 (i.e. VERY dark) with no flash:

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dandantheadminman · Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 11:48 am Post subject:

you did a nice job sicne you didnt use flash, gd one
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bluebomberx · Quite High User Joined: 01 Oct 2006 Posts: 134

Actually, most of the shots you will see in magazines are taken with multiple flashes with wireless triggers lighting the scene. When it's dark out, you might be able to use the built in optical slave if your flashes have one. Once you get your DSLR and a flash, you'll start wondering what will happen if you add another and another to the scene.

Optical slaves are not completely reliable, however. If others will be shooting the same scene, their flashes may trigger your flashes. This will drain your batteries and cause the flashes to not be ready when you are. The first wedding I was commisioned to shoot ended up like that. I went home and purchased a set of Pocket Wizards and never looked back.

fozzybear · Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 11:19 pm Post subject:

Following on from Yoda.. i took some time to pan shots really dark using different techniques. i can't tell you what flash mode Hamish used for his but i slow sync'd mine for a back fill..

this is the result

I wish i handn't cut his head off.. (N.B. note i have not PS'd these shots.. i try not to all errors are easy touch ups if needed)
even though it was dark i locked the iso to 200 to get different effects, i panned as smooth as i could at 1/50th with max apature 1.8..

you don't have to freeze the action and the scene to get a good shot.. as hamish pointed out panning gives the speed feel to the scene and allows longer exposures on the object.. takes a bit of practice..

here is a shot when i was early on in the trails..

i like the way that it causes the rider to leap out the picture specially the 2nd one..

just my 2 pence worth..

Hamish · Forum Veteran Joined: 29 Sep 2006 Posts: 1011

fozzybear · Posted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 5:08 pm Post subject:

Doh.. stupid me..

biker_chris · Not quite so newbie Joined: 06 Sep 2006 Posts: 17

definatly faster iso speed

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