Dee too hundrad.

sassycat11736 · Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 12:26 am Post subject: Dee too hundrad.

Anyone with one find that you cant change focus areas unless you half press shutter? never used to get that with the salmon 350D.

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sassycat11736 · Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 12:40 am Post subject:

coz.
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Hamish · Forum Veteran Joined: 29 Sep 2006 Posts: 1011

RTFM

It's not a problem on my machine. Bear in mind that you can change the heck of a lot depending on the shooting you're doing so that the camera behaves differently from the defaults. If you don't already use the custom banks then you really should. I have my own sport mode (I'll post up the settings later if you want) as well as ones for general use, landscapes and flash.

e.g. you can set the playstation type controller button so that it focusses as you change the AF point. Very useful for changing compositions and taking multiple pics. Combine that with focus priority, no focus lock, AF single area & continuous AF & high speed shooting and you have a sports machine that kicks the butt of any fish-based entry level DSLR.
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Hamish

Roo · Forum Master Joined: 16 Aug 2006 Posts: 442

I know what you mean, I think you can only change them when the light meter is activated so one way would be to increase the time the light meter is on after last pressing the button (option C3). Give that a go?

Hamish · Forum Veteran Joined: 29 Sep 2006 Posts: 1011

Here are the important ones:

a1 - focus priority
a2 - focus priority
a3 - normal
a4 - whichever you prefer but doesn't matter if you never use group dynamic AF. I don't think I've ever used it.
a5 - off
a6 - on
a7 - on
a8 - whichever you prefer (I prefer on)
a9 - on

f1 - shooting mode -> center AF
f2 - initiate autofocus

Also AF-C, CH and single area AF or single area dynamic AF.

The AF works a little quicker in single area rather than dynamic as it only uses info from the one focus point. You just need to be accurate with your focussing. If you turn off focus lock then it tracks the subject without the tiny delay, which is intended if something bright gets in the way temporarily and 'distracts' the AF. Just make sure that you don't have any bright objects (e.g. other riders watching) in the AF point just before you take the shot.

That should help a bit.
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Hamish

Hamish · Forum Veteran Joined: 29 Sep 2006 Posts: 1011

Roo · Forum Master Joined: 16 Aug 2006 Posts: 442

I think we might be thinking about different things. I took it to mean pressing the directional button on the back to select which AF point, you can't do this on my D200 while the light meter is off, you need it lit up in the viewfinder (by half pressing the shutter) then you can move the AF point around, hence my suggestion to lengthen the auto off of the light meter in C3. So you don't need to be half pressing the shutter to move the AF point a quick press is needed to activate the light meter then you can move the AF point.

If that's what you are on about too then ignore me :S

Hamish · Forum Veteran Joined: 29 Sep 2006 Posts: 1011

Roo · Forum Master Joined: 16 Aug 2006 Posts: 442

I see what you're on about now, I would prefer it if it didn't activate the af, just changed the point whether the light meter was on or off, although I rarely use anything other than centre point.

mikedeere · Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 12:13 pm Post subject:

It's the same with the D70, the light meter has to be on to select the AF area.

I'd find it a bit annoying too if the camera automatically focussed when using the d-pad to select an AF area.

Hamish · Forum Veteran Joined: 29 Sep 2006 Posts: 1011